Addressable LEDs are HUGE right now in custom lighting, but I rarely use them.
In this video, I'm passing along a pretty cool trick that I learned from my friend Jay at Sinister Retrowerkz, who's been using these awesome parts from our buddy James.
Here’s the link to the product:
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/shops/item/376787989907891/
The idea is that we can bypass the need for an RGB driver for the Demon Eyes, and graft in the LED to the existing 66 Pixel Drop in C Light from Lighting Trendz, (which uses Addressable lighting).
I learned another awesome trick where I was able to make a separate color for the Demon Eyes while the parking light is activated.
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So we're gon na do something that not a lot of people even know is possible. We're gon na take this little ic chip. It's just a little chip, that's gon na identify one led, and that led happens to be this demon eye. So this demonite the way that it's gon na work is i'm gon na mount it inside of this projector so that it works just like that and the only way that that's gon na work to be able to power a demon eye from the same led wires.

So we're gon na tap into the existing wires from the addressable. We've got this flow series strip from lighting trends, and it has three wires coming in. So what we're gon na do is we're gon na hack into those wires, i'm going to cut the wires right there and then i'm going to install them to the front side and the back side of this little ic chip. So it's going to come into the chip straight from the controller.

It's going to hit the front side of the chip power up this demon eye and then it's going to come out of the back side of the chip and then follow down here and hit the light. So what that means is that on the chain of leds, there's 66 leds on this big c bar, and this is going to become 67, but instead of it going at the end, it's going to become led number one, so they'll be pixel number one and then Pixel number two in the corner here and it wraps around and ends on pixel 67 here, so we're just basically adding one led into the mix, but that's giving us the effect right there, where the color that that turns first will then hop over to here, and It wraps around, so you can get fancy with offsets and stuff like that. All i care right now is the fact that i have existing wiring right here that i want to cut into, and i want to add this new led into the mix all right. There's nothing wrong.

This is totally good to go. It's 66 leds right now, but there would be no demon eye if i don't tap it into the system. Right here cut this strip the wires and then we're going to solder everything up and get it ready here test it and in the video. After that, i will mount this demon eye under the lens there and we'll test everything out before we seal it up and then i'll get the seal up this light and have them all ready to go all right step.

One. I'm gon na cut these wires. Now i'm gon na take the scissors and cut the heat shrink back just a bit, so we can have a little bit of wiring to work with here and a lot of times. What i'll do is, after i cut this stuff because it wants to keep falling apart into tiny little pieces.

I'll actually hit it with the heat gun to make sure that it's not going gon na be leaving little tiny pieces of plastic inside the light got that there i'm gon na hit it with the heat gun. Now now i'm going to strip and tin these wires. Really quick: we don't need much wires just enough to solder onto the boards here. You would think that i would get a bigger piece of solder.

Huh don't do what i'm doing, but you know you get it come on suck it up there buddy all right. So now we want the one on this side is what we're going to solder on first. So this should say: 5 volts there there's our 5 volt next is our data wire and our ground? Okay. So that's this side.
Now, on the opposite side, each side has its own function. Yes, so this is the outside. We just did the in. So what happens is if we didn't do this part right here, then the demon eye would be pixel number one and then nothing else would get power, but because we want it to go from pixel 1 over to pixel 2.

We have to solder in this. So this, basically is the thing that connects the demon eye to the led strip. So there you have power ground and data right yeah, so it's pretty straightforward ground is black power. Is red data in this case is white, but sometimes the color for data changes.

I mean actually color for these wires change all the time, so it's just important to know which function each wire does, as opposed to just assuming that red means power. I've seen red for data all kinds of stuff, okay, so now we're going to plug this thing. In and test to make sure that our connection is good to go, and what should happen is this should turn the same color as the projector on that side, but i might not have the program dialed for 67 leds. So what we might see is that this led right here might not light up off the bat there we go.

So this is how it should look sure enough. We're good and i'm going to check the program, really quick, make sure that we've got all of our leds in the system. So i'm gon na go here. I'm gon na say this is the left headlight right there? The weird thing is that should actually have an extra led to it.

So, let's see does that change anything on this side, so these are actually plugged in backwards. The way that i have it on the right side is, i have 66, oh there. It is so both of them were down one. So now it's 67 on the right and 67 on the left.

We are all good to go and we can test out a couple different, animations white dazzle. This makes it really dim, but you can see it is lit up nice and dim, and the cool thing is next: step is going to be taking this led and just installing it into the projector like this, and then it can tap into the system here. Just with these little jst connectors, how do you test to make sure that the led's putting the right color a super important one, is if you've got something, that's just doing solid colors. You want to try to match those up.

So i have this as the strobe setting there's different ones, but like popcorn would be terrible right because you never see one color everywhere else or you could go to solid and you can actually change any of these colors. But you get the idea with that, like if i go to strobe now that was crazy. I don't know why it wasn't doing it that cool earlier, but solid's a good one, i'll just kind of pan through everything. That's a good way.
Now, if you have anything wrong, if you have red, green or blue in the wrong order in your connection when it's soldered up to this little board right here, you'll know, especially if you put it on something like solid, because it won't match this it'll turn. Let's say red: when everything else is green, then you've got to swap some wires around. Every led has different wiring order. Color of the wires does not have a whole lot to do with it.

So, in this case, i believe red is actually the white wire and then i want to say: blue is green red. I don't know red is blue. It, oh actually red is nothing, look we're not even using red, so black is the only one that i know is power. The other three are just in some random order, but we got it so we're good to go.

Now. We can install the demonic all right. Well, every projector is slightly different, but this one is particularly easy to work with, because all i have to do is take out four screws and then this front lens is going to come off. It's going to give me access to top of the projector, where i can mount this demon eye using nothing, but some aluminum tape and some double-sided foam tape hold on make sure it doesn't fall off so that i'm gon na set to the side.

And now i've got our projector so the way that i've seen this particular setup work is, if i try to put the so. If i try to put this thing too far forward, it's going to be very visible from outside of the projector. So what i'm going to do is i'm going to put it to where it's aiming down, but it's not going to be visible from the front so yeah. This is going to be the first way that it's down and then we'll stick some aluminum tape on the top.

The idea is just that the double sided tape is going to hold it in into place. The aluminum tape is going to make sure that it doesn't come undone. So here is the plan. I want this thing to be as far back as it can without being visible from the front, so we're going to test it.

We're going to see if that that gives us what we want that actually might be too far forward. All right, let's see how that looks, can you see it nope, i'm gon na put the strips on the top, because i'm pretty confident in how that's set up center it just a little bit - and this is what these guys are gon na be for these are Going to keep it nice and center so that it doesn't start wiggling, because if it's only got one little piece of tape holding it in place on top, then that will act as like a pivot point, where it's sticking down and then, as it's able to move Left and right, like this it'll wiggle, which we don't want first thing, i'm going to do is come over the top and then go straight down on the projector, and that's it and one more on the back. What's actually holding it down is the projector lens itself. The or the projector lens holder, this is the kind of stuff that drives people crazy.
When they see me do it because they want me to do more than this and i'm like nope. I don't have to just so make sure that these flat double-sided tape and aluminum tape - they use it and ex in, like super extreme conditions on furnaces and stuff like that, then i'm down to use it to simply hold down a little demon eye last step is Going to be sliding this dude over the top and then i'm going to use a screwdriver, not the drill, to thread these back in you don't want to cross thread these this particular projector. I can feel it threading into the hole itself on the projector before i even hit this back part the metal part. So if i did this with the drill, i feel like it'd be so easy to cross thread it now granted.

I probably should have checked the output before i put all these screws back in i'm just being like egotistically, confident right now, maybe do a better job than me checking just to be safe once you're to the point where you're back here, let's see boom dope. This is going to turn color first and then we're going to get this led right there it's going to fire. So if i change this really quick, so this will take all the way until this whole thing fills up and then that will become yellow. That's it now we're just going to seal this thing up.

You.

By Chris

15 thoughts on “Addressable LED Demon Eyes”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Egau Ivan says:

    I have subaru b4 2000 model would like to have such lights on it, hope this dreams comes true

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars lazaro arteaga says:

    Can you make the one for my Honda pilot 2003
    How much

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jr Brown says:

    Can you modify diode Dynamics prism rgb angel & demon eyes to work with neopixel leds? They have the same 4 wire setup as your demon eyes in this video.

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars CorvetteMan says:

    Is the addressable flow series strip 'C-Bar ' from lighting trends a board specifically made for the lights you are working on in this video –
    or, is this one of their Flow Series Flex Strips?

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Alex Leonard says:

    I want all that on my RAM 1500, where can I find all the supplies?

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Luigi Diaz says:

    This helps a lot. I may just do this same mod once I purchase my new headlights. Love your videos bro. Keep em coming!🦾🤟

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars R Potter says:

    Yo Chris I dropped you A message let me know it you received it

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars CorvetteMan says:

    Hi Chris,
    Where can we buy these IC Chips?
    I'm getting ready to open my new Morimoto's for my Corvette – I think I may give this setup a try.
    Keep up the awesome videos coming, please…
    Thank you!!

  9. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars TheCarFiend says:

    Hey Chris! Link to product isn't working.. is it on Amazon by any chance? Currently on a headlight build was planning on doing this exact mod

  10. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Conroy Boothe says:

    Imma revisit this one day when I'm modding my own headlights in hopes I will understand

  11. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Luke Grubbs says:

    i make custom light bars that do the same functions. Always appreciate the tips

  12. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Tim Shields says:

    It’s so awesome to see this! James and Jay are awesome. I guess it’s time to try this addressable stuff out. 😉

  13. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Hustle Ninjas says:

    I have no idea what you're talking about… but it's dope af

  14. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Ruined Eco says:

    I couldn’t wrap my mind around how to do this. Thankyou so much

  15. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Byron rico zamora says:

    Hola, me gustaría que le pusieras subtítulos en español, para entenderle mejor a tus vídeos

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